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http://www.archive.org/details/coloradomagnificOOsteerich 


--m- 


^m^^ 


THE 


MAGNIFICENT 


Special  Round  Trip  Rates 


...TO... 


Colorado  and   Utah   Points 

Season  of  190  t 


DATES  OF  SALE  \   -^""^  ^^^^  *°  ^°^^'  ^"^^^s^^^- 

(    July  lOth  to  August  31st,  inclusive. 

Rate,  One  Fare  plus  S2.00 

FROM 

Chicago,  Peoria  and  Missouri  River  Points;  also  from  stations 

in  Oklahoma  and  Indian  Territories,  Nebraska  and 

Kansas,  to  and  including  Colby,  Kan., 

TO 

Denver,  Colorado  Springs,  Pueblo,  Glenwood  Springs, 

Salt  Lake  and  Ogden. 

■nATTTc   r»rr  CAT       (    ^^^y   ^^^  ^°  9^^'  ^"^^"sive. 
DATES  OF  SALE  -j    September  ist  to   lOth,  inclusive. 

Rate  from  Chicago,  $25.00;  from  Missouri  River,  1 15.00; 

from  Peoria  and  points  East  of  Missouri  River 

proportionately  lower, 

TO 

Denver,  Colorado  Springs  and  Pueblo. 

To  Glenwood  Springs  $10.00,  and  to  Salt  Lake  City  and 

Ogden  ;^i5.oo  higher  than  to  Denver. 

Final    Return    Limit   of  all   tickets,    October   31st. 


EAST-BOUND. 

Special  round  trip  tickets  will  be  on  sale  from 

Denver,  Colorado  Springs  and  Pueblo 

TO 

Chicago,  Peoria,  Des  Moines,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  Missouri 

River,  Oklahoma  and  Indian  Territories,  St.  Louis  and 

intermediate  points;  also  to  Memphis,  Tenn., 

at  rate  of  one  fare,  plus  $2  00. 

Final   Return   Limit  of  all  tickets,   October  31st,    1901. 


Stop-overs. — Stop-overs  will  be  allowed  at  and  West  of 
Denver,  Colorado  Springs  and  Pueblo,  as  follows:  To  Colo- 
rado destinations,  within  the  final  limit;  to  Utah  destinations, 
thirty  days  in  both  directions,  not  to  exceed  final  limit. 


COLORADO 

the  MAGNIFICENT 


JAMES  W.  STEELE 


PUBLISHED  AND  COPYRIGHTED  BY 
THE  PASSENGER  DEPARTMENT  OF  THE 
CHICAGO,  ROCK    ISLAND   AND    PACIFIC    RAILWAY 


ALONq 


,i^^^"^  ^^ 


GREAT  ROCK  ISLAND  ROUTE 


¥ 


Press  of 

J.  C.  WiNSHip  Company 

Chicago 


Ai;V 


WHY  PEOPLE  GO  TO  COLORADO. 


It  is  not  the  wandering  instinct,  nor  merely  the 
desire  to  go  somewhere  and  the  love  of  change.  It  is 
not  in  the  majority  of  cases  even  failing  health.  It  is 
because  the  name  ''Colorado"  covers  the  most  remark- 
able scenic  panorama  in  the  civilized  world,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  most  accessible. 

It  is  difficult,  to  begin  with,  to  realize  even  the  ex- 
»tent  of  this  piece  of  scenery.  Colorado  contains 
104,500  square  miles.  It  is  as  big  as  all  New  England 
with  the  great  State  of  Illinois  added,  and  two-thirds 
of  this  vast  domain  is  mountains. 

Real  mountains.  The  American  citizen  who  has 
not  seen  these,  and  whose  observations  of  mountain 
scenery  have  been  confined  to  the  groups  and  chains 
that  lie  east  of  the  Mississippi,  does  not  yet  know  his 
country's  capacities  in  the  field  of  grandeur.  All  that 
claim  the  name  of  mountains  in  Maine,  New  Hamp- 
shire, Virginia  and  the  Carolinas  will  seem  to  him  as 
pretty  hills  after  once  he  has  beheld  the  Titanic  masses 
that  rise  and  lean  against  the  sky  in  Colorado. 


VH/UW;;   >   •,    UMJOhAn   :^]j'i 


For  the  height  of  the  average  Alleghanies  and  the 
Blue  Ridge  is  perhaps  as  much  as  2,500  feet  above  the 
sea.  Timber-Hne  and  the  region  of  eternal  snow  are 
unknown  to  them.  The  most  famous  of  them — famil- 
iar names  at  a  time  when  Colorado  was  still  unknown 
— may  sometimes  attain  to  5,000  feet.  Kahtahdin  is 
5,385  feet  high.  Kearsarge,  historic  name,  has  only 
3,250  feet.  The  Peaks  of  Otter,  hi  Virgina,  climb  to 
4,200  feet.  Famous  localities  offer  but  little  grandeur 
by  comparison  with  the  elevations  at  which  lie  the 
greater  portion  of  the  railway  tracks  of  Colorado.  The 
thirteen  peaks  of  Mount  Desert  Island  and  vicinity  are 
from  1,000  to  2,800  feet  high.  Mount  Agamenticus, 
a  familiar  name  with  tourists,  is  so  small  a  hill  with  its 
670  feet  that  in  Colorado  it  would  have  no  name  and 
would  hardly  be  thought  to  block  the  trail  in  a  moun- 
tain pass.  All  these  familiar  heights  and  names  might 
be  lost  in  Colorado  and  never  found  again. 

For  the  State  is  traversed  by  the  main  chain  of 
the  oft-quoted  ^'backbone  of  the  continent,"  the  huge 
ridge-pole  of  the  Republic,  the  prolific  mother  of  rivers 
born  in  fields  of  inaccessible  snow,  the  rock-barred 
treasure-house  of  the  world's  greatest  supply  of  gold. 
Amid  these  heights  are  born  the  Arkansas,  both  the 
Plattes,  the  Rio  Grande,  the  rivers  of  Nebraska  and 
central  Kansas,  and  that  Rio  Colorado  that  flows  at 
last  into  the  alien  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  California. 

Out  of  this  jumbled  mass  of  giant  peaks  arise 
those  special  ones  beside  whom  all  the  others  of  Eu- 
rope and  North  America  seem  as  hillocks.  Here  are 
Pike's,  Long's,  Grav's,  Lincoln,  Ouray,  Grant,  Sher- 
man, and  scores  of  others  whose  heights  are  from 
12,000  to  15,000  feet.  To  one  who  sees  them  far 
away,  perhaps  across  eighty  miles  of  hazy  distance, 
they  seem  clouds  rather  than  mountains. 


They  may  at  last  become  to  him  familiar  things. 
For  here  more  than  even  elsewhere  has  human  energy 
conquered,  and  through  these  defiles  and  up  these 
mountain  sides  long  since  the  railroads  have  climbed. 
Colorado  has  4,370  miles  of  railway. 

If  there  was  nothing  else  to  see,  and  stupendous 
beauty  had  no  real  charm,  these  works  of  men  would 
alone  repay  the  journey  from  afar.  They  illustrate 
the  capacity  of  the  material 
A  m  e  r  ic  a  n  genius,  un- 
abashed amid  even  such 
heights  and  depths  as 
these. 

People  go  to  Colorado 
because  in  the  best  sense 
it  is  a  strange  country. 
The  name  means  red,  and 
when  that  is  known  the 
visitor,  and  perhaps  the 
reader,  wonders  why.  One 
may  imagine  the  ancient 
Spanish  wanderer  in  these 
solitudes  near  two  hundred 
years  ago,  when  he  rattled 
his  broken  armor  around  a 
camp-fire  in  the  canon  of 
the  Arkansas,  and  looked 
upward  between  the  mighty 
walls,  and  remembered  ever 
after  that  they  were  of  the  dull,  rich  red  that  human 
architects  try  to  imitate  in  cathedral  towers.  The  spires 
of  the  wonderful  Garden  of  the  Gods  are  red,  and  so 
are  the  pillars  of  the  colossal  gateway  that  opens  from 
it  eastward  on  the  plain.  What  of  the  rocks  of  Colo- 
rado are  not  thus  red  are  gray ;  the  color  of  the  cen- 
turies. 


In  the  Canon. 


There  is  here  a  unique  combination  of  two  qual- 
ities that  are  said  never  to  mingle — the  austere  and  the 
beautiful.  When  one  sees  in  the  early  morning  from 
a  train  on  the  Rock  Island  line  the  Rampart  range, 
fencing  the  eastern  rim  of  this  mountain  world  like  a 
wall,  with  the  vast  undulations  of  the  plains  around 
him  and  these  domes  and  ridges  piled  against  the  sky 
before  him,  he  can  see  only  the  magnificent.  Grandeur 
is  the  overpowering  sentiment.  He  can  not  imagine 
that  just  before  him  lies  Manitou,  or  the  two  Cheyenne 
Caiions ;  perhaps  the  two  most  beautiful  pieces  of 
natural  scenery  known  to  world-wide  travelers ;  or  Ute 
pass,  or  the  Garden  of  the  Gods.  So  when  one  sees  the 
mighty  dome  of  Pike's  Peak  from  afar  one  can  not 
imagine  any  of  the  famous  scenes  that  nestle  under 
his  flank.  At  the  pretty  town  of  Canon  City  one  does 
not  foresee  how  soon  his  train  will  glide  between  the 
jaws  of  the  Royal  Gorge  in  the  Arkansas  Canon.  When 
he  glides  over  the  table  lands  west  of  Denver  he  can 
not  foresee  the  Clear  Creek  Caiion  just  ahead,  or  imag- 
ine the  contortions  that  make  the  indescribable  "Loop" 
at  Silver  Plume. 

At  Pueblo,  dim  with  smelter-smoke  and  rattling 
with  the  clank  of  machinery,  he  can  not  place  himself 
in  the  rare,  sweet,  thin  air  not  far  ahead  of  him  at 
Marshall  Pass,  or  imagine  Ouray  mountain,  bare,  sol- 
emn, silent,  whose  summit  he  almost  crosses,  and  so 
near  that  he  may  almost  count  the  huge  rocks  that  lie 
like  pebbles  on  that  gray  summit  where  human  beings 
have  rarely  trod,  and  where  they  have  never  lived. 

With  thousands  of  nooks  and  corners,  and  water- 
falls, and  grotesque  shapes,  and  hidden  valleys,  and 
scenes  that  are  not  named  on  any  map  or  in  any  guide- 
book, there  is  still  nothing  in  Colorado  that  descends 
below  the  grade  of  actual  magnificence.    It  is  all  on  the 

6 


scale  of  immensity.  Even  the  mesas  (table-lands), 
where  there  are  ranches  and  farms,  all  are  4,ocx>  to 
7,000  feet  above  the  sea;  more  than  twice  as  high  as 
some  of  the  storied  peaks  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  The 
word  "valley"  means  a  cleft  in  the  mountain  world 
through  which  some  snow-bom  stream  foams  and 
tumbles,  a  continuous  cataract  for  miles,  yet  beside 
which  glitter  the  steel  tracks 
of  a  railroad,  and  which  one 
sits  still  and  looks  down  upon 
as  one  goes  by  with  the  su- 
periority of  a  demigod. 

•The  trains  crawl  up  the 
mountain-sides  in  long  curves, 
and  the  experiences  of  such 
a  journey  are  the  most  re- 
markable in  the  annals  of 
travel.  One  sees  far  behind 
and  below  him  a  film  of  deli- 
cate  lace,  tangled  and  torn 

amid  the  branches  of  the  distant  pines.  He  does  not 
recognize  it  as  something  he  has  looked  iipward  for  all 
his  life;  a  cloud.  He  looks  downward  still  further  into 
depths  that  seem  immeasurable.  He  was  there  half 
an  hour  ago,  and  they  seemed  high.  But  from  an 
opposite  windows  if  he  looks  he  will  see  still  up, 
up,  up,  and  he  is  climbing  slowly  the  roof  of  the 
world.  H  he  were  now  afoot,  and  clinging  like 
an  insect  to  the  mountain-side,  he  would  see  his  train 
as  it  really  is — 3.  small  brown  worm  crawling  slow^ly 
in  a  slanting  line  upon  the  leaning  mountain  wall. 

It  is  solely  owing  to  the  art  of  man  that  it  is  all 
there  is  to  do ;  to  sit  still  and  be  carried  amid  heights 
and  clouds  and  pines,  in  a  new  and  unknown  world, 
upon  paths  that  were  cut  in  solid  rock  where  even  a 

7 


On  a  Horseback  TiaiL 


mountain  goat  had  never  traveled.  Unknown  to  fame, 
the  men  who  did  these  things  have  completed  the  task 
and  have  gone  away,  and  one  wonders  why  they  have 
no  monuments.  They  created  the  most  remarkable 
railway  system  of  the  world.  It  has  resulted  in  an 
extraordinary  fact.  All  over  this  majestic  scene,  with- 
out any  weariness  or  hunger,  without  any  extreme 
of  heat  or  cold,  without  even  action,  care  or  thought, 
the  traveler  may  be  carried  until  his  sense  of  the 
sublime  is  satiated  and  his  soul  is  weary. 

Besides  all  this  are  the 
special  wonders ;  the  places 
and  scenes  that  have  been 
described  by  innumerable 
writers  in  many  thousands 
of  pages.  It  is  very  true 
that  it  was  mostly  for  noth- 
ing that  this  was  done. 
Words  are  almost  in  vain. 
When  one  has  merely  writ- 
ten that  here  the  mountain 
torrent  roars  and  foams  be- 
side the  track  for  eight  or 
ten  miles  one  can  do  no 
more.  The  real  thing  is 
not  to  be  so  easily  de- 
scribed, if  it  can  be  de- 
scribed at  all.  The  restless 
torrent  that  lives  and  dies 
without  a  placid  moment; 
the  indescribable  sound  of 
breaking  foam;  the  long  broken  stairway  between 
the  canon  walls  down  which  this  brawling  water 
has  tumbled  for  centuries,  never  for  two  seconds 
alike    during    all    the    time;     the    changing    shadows 


as  the  day  passes;  the  ghmpses  of  the  blue  sky 
above  and  beyond  it  all ;  the  silence  in  which  noth- 
ing has  ever  been  heard  save  this  roaring  that  goes 
on  forever,  careless  of  man  and  the  thoughts  of  all 
his  tribe — ^all  these  things  are  left  out  of  the  picture 
that  is  painted  with  words,  or  with  the  camera,  or 
with  the  painter's  colors.  This  is  why  one  must  he 
there.  There  is  no  knowing  but  by  actual  presence. 
And  to  be  amid  such  scenes  is  to  live  in  a  new  way 
while  one  is  there,  and  to  go  away  again  with  the  power 
of  remembering  them  vividly  ever  after. 

To  such  an  end  do  people  go  amid  the  scenes  of 
wonderful,  colossal,  indescribable  Colorado. 

And  every  man's  Colorado  is  his  own.  There  is 
not  one  place  to  go,  one  famous  scene  to  be  visited, 
but  hundreds.  There  are  of  necessity  certain  points 
and  places  mentioned  more  than  others,  because  life  is 
too  short  to  enable  one  to  include  and  remember  all 
that  lies  between  them.  The  tourist  does  not  pass  all 
the  fourteen  miles  of  the  Black  Canon  looking  only 
for  the  towering  red  spire  that  is  known  as  the  Curre- 
canti  Needle.  He  does  not  wait  for  the  long  broken 
silver  skein  that  is  Chipeta  Falls.  He  need  not  shut 
his  eyes  because  the  guide-book  tells  him  that  just 
ahead  stands  the  special  wonder  that  he  almost  thought 
in  starting  he  was  making  the  special  journey  to  see. 
He  can  not  go  astray  from,  and  can  not  even  miss,  the 
charm,  new  every  moment,  that  pervades  the  entire 
endless,  solemn,  silent  chaotic  mass  everywhere. 

Where  all  are  but  glimpses,  fleeting  visions  each 
one  of  which  would  be  remembered  for  a  lifetime  were 
it  not  for  others,  there  are  still  scenes  that  appeal  es- 
pecially to  one  tourist  or  another  according  to  temper- 
ament and  time.  All  teach  the  one  fact;  that  a  man 
may  see  and  know,  and  yet  be  utterly  unable  to  convey 


to  any  other  man  his  conception  of  the  facts.  All  his 
descriptions  seem  to  him  commonplaces.  It  is  a  coun- 
try that  sends  no  messages,  writes  no  letters,  and  talks 
even  to  her  visitors  only  as  the  sybil  did — personally 
and  mysteriously  or  not  at  all.  Millions,  perhaps,  have 
visited  these  scenes,  and  millions  will  yet  go  and  come. 
They  are  in  the  main  a  silent  multitude.  When  they 
talk  they  describe  memories  and  mental  effects,  not 
actual  scenes.  And  they  end  in  silence,  only  saying 
as  a  conclusion  that  which  was  always  true:  "I  can 
not  describe  it — go  and  see  it  for  yourself."  This  is 
what  one  must  do.  The  mountains  are  not 
describable. 

COLORADO  AS  A  STATE. 

We  think  of  every  state  as  an  entity,  almost  as 
an  individual  of  colossal  stature  and  the  feminine  gen- 
der. This  is  the  way  Colorado  appears,  unconsciously, 
to  the  mind  of  the  intending  tourist.  He  wants  to 
know  what  it  is  that  he  intends  visiting.  He  wants  a 
material  mental  impression — to  think  of  perhaps  in  con- 
nection with  the  line  he  is  going  by  and  the  money 
he  is  going  to  spend.    On  this  subject  a  few  words. 

It  is  an  error  to  imagine  that  Colorado  is  scenery 
exclusively.  She  claims  importance  as  an  industrial 
commonwealth.  She  produces  more  than  thirty  mil- 
lions in  gold  every  year.    She  at  least  feeds  herself. 

Amid  all  the  scenes  alluded  to  under  the  head  of 
wonderful  scenery  live  the  plodding  sons  of  men.  Each 
little  mountain  nook  has  its  permanent  occupants  beside 
the  brawling  stream.  Often  there  are  ranch-houses, 
and  cattle,  and  haystacks.  It  is  true  it  no  more  resem- 
bles in  scenery  the  rich  country  traversed  on  the  Rock 
Island  line  while  going  there  than  it  does  in  vast  agri- 
cultural resources.  But  it  is  a  land  of  men  and  women, 
and  human  interests  and  resources. 

10 


Leaving  these  things  aside,  and  understanding 
that  the  merely  industrial  aspects  of  Colorado  are 
also  to  be  counted  among  her  wonders,  the  intending 
visitor  can  know  beside  that  of  all  the  mountain  king- 
doms she  stands  first.  The  mountain  system  that  forms 
the  chief  attraction  of  central  Europe,  impressed  upon 
the  school-child's  mind  as  the  highest  and  coldest  and 
steepest  and  most  romantic  of  the  world,  and  visited 
annually  by  thousands  of  Americans,  covers  altogether 
an  area  of  95,000  square  miles.  The  mountain  sys- 
tem of  Colorado  alone,  only  a  portion  of  the  whole, 
covers  an  area  of  at  least  500,000  square  miles. 

Mont  Blanc,  the  central  figure  of  this  tourist's 
tramping-ground  of  central  Europe,  is  15,784  feet  high. 
Marshall  Pass,  in  Colorado,  is  10,850  feet  high,  and 
is  climbed  every  day  by  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande 
railway.  The  famous  Jungfrau  is  13,393  ^^^^  high. 
The  Matterhorn  is  still  lower.  The  pass  of  the  great 
St.  Bernard  is  8,170  feet  high.  Veta  Pass  in  Colorado 
is  over  9,000  feet  high ;  another  railway  route.  Even 
the  town  of  Leadville,  a  familiar  name  and  the  resi- 
dence of  some  fifteen  thousand  people,  with  two  or 
three  railroads,  i?  10,200  feet  above  sea  level.  Colo- 
rado has  many  peaks  lacking  very  little  of  the  height 
of  the  crowning  eminence  of  Europe,  and  there  are 
cities,  towns,  mines,  railroad  tracks  and  ranches  as 
high  as  Mont  Blanc's  sister  peaks  in  the  famous  Alps. 
Some  of  the  grassy  floors  of  her  famous  parks  are 
higher  than  the  average  height  of  the  Alpine  chain. 

Cattle  in  Colorado  live  all  the  year  in  pastures  at 
a  height  that  being  merely  mentioned  seems  incredible, 
and  that  should  belong  solely  to  the  domain  of  the 
mountain  goat.  Vegetables  and  fruits  grow  in  abun- 
dance at  elevations  that  in  Europe  would  be  occupied 
by  the  slow-crawling  glacier.     Timber-line,  a  well- 


known  demarcation,  lies  at  an  elevation  of  about  ii,000 
feet.    Eternal  snow  lies  at  6,ocx)  in  the  Alps. 

There  are  the  "parks."  There  is  nothing  like  them 
elsewhere.  It  is.  the  apt  Colorado  name  for  the  beauti- 
ful enclosures  that  are  fenced  as  the  mansions  of  the 
blest  are  builded;  *'not  with  hands."  The  mountains 
fence  them  round.  Those  of  these  parks  that  are 
considered  small  are  perhaps  no  bigger  than  some  of 

the  New  England  states. 
There  are  four  that  are 
larger,  and  one  of  them  is 
as  big  as  Maine.  Every 
reader  has  heard  of  these 
four :  North,  Middle  South 
and  San  Luis  parks. 

The  ''high  plains,"  a 
grazing-country  rap  idly 
taking  its  place  as  among 
the  best  of  the  world,  oc- 
cupy something  more  than 
one-third  of  the  area  of  the 
state.  Extending  eastward 
to  the  Missouri  river  this 
plains  country  is  a  vast 
slanting  plateau,  rising  an 
average  of  ten  feet  to  the 
mile  from  the  river  to 
the  foothills  of  the  Ram- 
long    slant    the    transconti- 


Elk  Creek  Canon,  Looking  Across  the  South  Platte 
River  at  Pine,  Colorado. 


this 


part  range.  Up 
nental  lines  climb.  Out  at  the  junction  station  of  Li- 
mon,  seventy-eight  miles  east  of  Colorado  Springs, 
where  the  Rock  Island  line  sends  one  branch  to  Denver 
and  another  to  Colorado  Springs  and  Pueblo,  the  trav- 
eler who  near  here  sees  for  the  first  time  the  vague  blue 
masses  that  are  the  Rocky  Mountains  usually  has  little 


12 


idea  that  he  is  already  some  five  thousand  feet  in  the 
upper  air,  or  that  he  has  cHmbed  so  high  during  the 
slumbers  of  a  single  night. 

Aside  from  the  plains-country  the  conception  of 
Colorado  must  be  that  of  a  piled-up  succession  of  the 
most  magnificent  panoramas  nature  has  anywhere  to 
show.  In  tiers  and  vast  successions,  far  into  the  purple 
distance  the  ranges  lie.  The  valleys  that  lie  between, 
great  and  small,  number  hundreds.  There  are  running 
through  these  two  hundred  and  sixty  snow-born 
streams  that  are  large  enough  to  have  names.  There 
are  nine  hundred  lakes,  and  sixty-three  streams  that 
are  called  rivers.  There  are  a  hundred  and  fifty  tow- 
ering peaks  that  are  already  named,  but  there  are  still 
some  hundred  and  fifty  others  yet  unnamed,  and  wait- 
ing patiently  for  the  great  names  and  the  great  events 
in  memory  of  which  they  shall  be  called. 

Half-hidden  amid  this  vastness,  in  the  nooks  and 
corners  of  a  mountain  world,  lie  the  scenes  that  have 
grown  famous.  Such  scenes  and  places,  it  may  be 
fairly  said,  do  not  exist  elsewhere  within  the  limits  of 
luxurious  travel,  if  at  all.  Some  of  them,  only  a  few, 
are  described  in  succeeding  pages. 


The  Good  Old  Way. 


13 


THE  COLORADO   RESORTS. 


■?SBi^ 


One  of  the  Springs, 
Manitou. 


Manitou. — There  is  no  other  approach  to  moun- 
tains that  equals  that  of  a  railway  train  from  the  east. 
Here  is  given  a  sudden  view  of  them  from  the  midst  of 
a  scene  that  is  a  striking  contrast — a  wide  and  silent 
vastness  in  which  the  westward  traveler  now  lives  a 
single  night,  in  which,  in  times  not  far  gone,  he  must 
pass  more  than  a  month.  First,  perhaps,  as  the  palatial 
Rock  Island  train  glides  toward  the  foothills  and  the 
rugged  dome  of  Pike's  Peak — and  it  is  one  of  the 

wonders  of  modern  times — 
there  is  to  the  traveler  a 
sense  of  change,  a  new  odor 
as  of  distant  pines,  and 
later  there  is  a  blue  and 
misty  glimpse  of  huge 
purple  shapes  against  the 
sky. 

This  eastward  edge  of 
the  Colorado  the  tourist 
first  sees  is  that  part  which 
contains  most  of  those 
places  for  which  the  journey  was  made.  In  it  are  sit- 
uated Colorado  Springs,  with  near-by  Manitou,  all  the 
resorts  and  pleasure-places  between  Colorado  Springs 
and  Denver.  South  of  the  latter  are  Pueblo,  Trinidad, 
and  Canon  City,  and  to  the  north  Denver,  Golden, 
Fort  Collins,  Greeley,  etc.  Their  situation  with  re- 
spect to  each  other  is  on  a  nearly  straight  line  running 
north  and  south  along  the  edge  of  the  plains. 

And  just  before,  one  of  the  two  western  termini 
of  the  Rock  Island  line,  is  the  chief  resort  of  the 


AiM 


14 


region,  and  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  world-  . 
Manitou. 

The  two  western  termini  of  the  Rock  Island  line 
are  Denver,  and  Pueblo  by  way  of  Colorado  Springs. 
The  two  terminal  branches,  each  running  to  one  of 
these  points,  meet  at  the  station  of  Limon,  as  pre- 
viously mentioned. 

The  beautiful  city  of  Colorado  Springs  occupies 
in  respect  to  Manitou  the  place  of  a  port  of  entry. 
One  place  is  in  sight  of  the  other  across  some  four 
miles  of  mesa.  (Pronounced  "maysah.")  [The  name 
is  in  universal  use  in  Colorado,  and  in  Spanish  means 
a  table.  It  is  the  name  of  flat-topped  hills,  and  among 
Americans  designates  almost  any  lands  with  a  level 
surface.]  About  the  famous  place  many  thousands  of 
things  have  already  been  said,  yet  there  will  always  be 
something  still  to  say.  It  is  not  so  much  of  a  place  as 
it  is  a  locality — the  nucleus  and  center  of  the  most 
remarkable  group  of  attractions  in  this  country,  if, 
indeed,  their  equals  can  be  found  so  near  together 
anywhere  else  in  the  world. 

The  opening  into  the  plain  that  runs  along  the 
flank  of  Pike's  Peak  is  Ute  Pass.  In  the  three-cornered 
notch  which  is  the  mouth  of  this  opening  sits  Mani- 
tou. It  is  where  the  plain  ends  and  the  mountains  be- 
g^n,  in  a  V-shaped  notch  precisely  on  the  edge.  In 
this  notch  bubbled  when  white  men  first  saw  the  place 
three  or  four  rather  peculiar  springs.  They  had  a 
faint  sweetish  taste,  were  effervescent,  and  had  med- 
icinal properties.  The  Indians  liked  them  well,  and 
so  have  all  who  have  since  tasted  them.  The  animals 
flocked  there  to  drink;  buffaloes  from  the  plains,  ante- 
lope, black-tailed  deer  and  elks  from  the  mountains, 
and  the  Utes  with  due  precautions  against  the  plains 
Apache,  camped  there  whenever  they  came  down  out 

15 


of  the  mountains  by  the  steep  trail  in  the  canon  that 
ever  since  has  borne  his  name.  This,  it  may  be  easily 
imagined,  was  the  situation  when  the  tattered  soldiers 
who  were  with  Pike  in  the  year  1806,  first  saw  the 
place.  It  is  easily  imagined  that  these  painted  savages 
named  the  place  ''Manitou."  At  any  rate  it  is  all  that 
is  left  of  \     them  and  their  traditions.   The  word 

meant  T^aJL   .  to   them   the   spirit   idea — God 

or    Devil — something 


A  Part  of  the  Burro  Brigade:— Near  Entrance  of 
South  Cheyenne  Canon. 

extraordinary  and  usually  something  beneficent.  They 
owned  these  mountains,  and  liked  to  come  down  and 
hunt  the  buffaloes  on  the  plains,  and  this  sheltered  nook 
with  its  sweet  waters  was  to  them  in  their  day  as  much 
a  sanitarium  as  it  is  now  to  thousands  of  ourselves. 
But  for  us  there  is  much  more.  Near  at  hand 
are  som.e  of  the  scenic  wonders  of  the  world.    There 


16 


are  the  wind-carved  obelisks  of  the  Garden  of  the 
Gods,  and  on  the  road  thither  the  huge  balanced  rock 
that  seems  to  have  been  waiting  through  all  the  ages 
for  a  wind,  or  the  hand  of  a  passing  child,  to  overturn 
it.  The  gateway  of  the  Garden,  opening  on  the  plain, 
and  the  most  singular  and  celebrated  of  natural  por- 
tals, stands  flanked  by  its  perpendicular  red  columns 
that  spring  more  than  three  hundred  feet  upward  from 
the  level  plain. 

Likewise  near  at  hand  to  the  south  of  Manitou 
are  the  deep  clefts  in  the  range  that  are  called  the 
North  and  South  Cheyenne  Cafions.  It  is  a  singular 
fact  that  these,  like  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  and  Mani- 
tou itself,  open  upon  the  mesa  and  are'among  the  most 
convenient  and  accessible  of  scenes.  If  they  were  hid- 
den in  the  heart  of  the  mountains  they  would  still  be 
visited  by  thousands  every  year.  The  southern  one  of 
these  contains  the  famous  and  beautiful  cascade  that 
falls  five  hundred  feet  in  seven  leaps,  the  beauties  of 
which  have  been  described  in  thousands  of  letters 
and  hundreds  of  printed  pages.  This  deep  canon, 
whose  sides  rise  hundreds  of  feet  like  walls,  and  whose 
abrupt  ending  is  the  white  sheet  of  falling  water  that 
is  the  lowest  of  the  seven  falls  that  rise  one  above  the 
other  in  a  series  of  gigantic  steps,  is  among  the  most 
famous  natural  scenes  of  the  world,  and  of  all  the 
famous  ones  is  the  most  accessible. 

The  twin  canon  immediately  to  the  northward 
has  its  tumbling  waters  too;  a  rushing,  foaming 
stream  without  the  stupendous  and  elaborate  scenic  ar- 
rangement of  the  falls.  The  two  canons  come  together 
in  the  form  of  a  huge  "Y"  where  they  open  on  the 
mesa.  A  beautiful  drive  runs  up  the  stem  of  this  from 
Colorado  Springs.  Here  amid  the  pines  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  celebrated  "Donkey  Brigade."     The 

17 


patient  gray  beasts  are  saddled  and  bridled  for  parties 
or  individuals  all  summer  long,  with  drivers  and 
guides.  Thousands  of  city  women  have  had  their  first 
side-saddle  experiences  with  these  ambling  ''mokes," 
and  the  canons  and  mountain  roads  resound  with 
shrieks  and  laughter  through  every  summer  day. 
^  All  the  latest  modern  con- 

veniences are  clustered  here. 
Between  Colorado  Springs 
and  Manitou  there  are  both 
steam  railroads  and  trolley- 
lines.  Between  the  beautiful 
little  city  and  the  canons  there 
is,  besides  the  road  alluded  to, 
a  trolley-line  that  winds  up  and 
down  steep  grades  and  through 
ravines,  past  Broad  moor  and 
overiookini^the  Valley  of  the  Gunnisou.  ^he  resorts  that  cluster  along 

the  foaming  stream  after  it  has  issued  from  the  caiion. 
fare  upon  which  is  ten  cents.  At  Colorado  Springs  a 
single  dollar  and  a  single  day  will  probable  go  further 
than  it  will  anywhere  else  in  the  world  in  giving  the 
tourist  those  glimpses  of  famous  scenes  he  will  re- 
member during  the  remainder  of  his  life. 

The  list  of  natural  attractions  that  cluster  about 
Colorado  Springs  and  Manitou  is  not  yet  exhausted. 
There  are  Seven  Lakes,  Monument  Park,  Rainbow 
Falls,  Manitou  Park,  Williams'  Caiion,  Cave  of  the 
Winds,  Engelman's  Caiion,  Red  Caiion,  Crystal  Park, 
Glen  Eyrie;  all  near  by  and  accessible,  to  be  easily 
seen  again  and  again,  a  whole  Summer's  pleasuring  in 
a  semi-circle  whose  radius  is  less  than  nine  miles  long. 
Wagon-roads  have  been  graded  in  all  directions  where 
there  are  not  steam  roads  or  trolley-lines.  There  is  no 
pleasure  ground  in  America,  perhaps  in  the   world, 


so  well  equipped  as  this.  The  climate  has  in  Sum- 
mer no  vicissitudes  and  in  Winter  few,  and  remarkable 
scenes  have  been  clustered  around  this  favored  spot 
with  a  profusion  remarkable  and  elsewhere  unknown. 
Besides  all  that  are  mentioned  there  are  all  the  side- 
scenes  ;  nooks,  corners,  cafions,  caves,  waterfalls,  huge 
rocks,  places  whence  one  may  see  at  sunset  the  moun- 
tains behind  and  the  wide  plains  in  front.  There  are 
innumerable  quarter-acres  that  have  been  discovered 
and  adopted  hundreds  of  times,  and  owned  for  a  whole 
Summer  by  their  finders  without  cost.  There  are 
thousands  of  girl-made  photographs  of  a  single  huge 
bowlder  and  a  tree,  or  a  rustic  bridge  and  foaming 
water,  or  a  cluster  of  pines. 

Manitou  itself  is  the  watering-place  par  excel- 
lence. Within  its  limits  there  are  in  all  nine  springs, 
all  cold  mineral  waters.  There  are,  however,  two 
kinds,  the  ''soda"  springs,  that  are  effervescent  and 
much  like  Apollinaris,  and  the  "iron"  springs.  All 
are  remarkably  medicinal.  Even  if  they  were  not 
so,  everything  else  is.  One  does  not  care.  There 
is  the  beautiful  scenery,  the  unfailing  sunshine,  the  new 
pine-laden  mountain  air,  the  all  out-of-doors,  the  tired- 
ness that  in  reality  is  rest.  These  more  than  springs 
of  specific  virtue  are  the  health-restorers  of  Manitou 
and  Colorado  Springs. 

Meantime  the  facilities  for  taking  care  of  people 
have  for  years  been  among  the  foremost  of  their 
kind.  Manitou  is  a  cluster  of  first-class  hotels,  and 
here,  in  Colorado  Springs,  amid  tree-clusters  by  the 
roads  and  the  trolley-lines,  and  in  every  attractive  spot, 
there  are  hotels,  cottages  and  "camps."  Tent-life  is 
followed  every  Summer  by  hundreds  of  visitors,  and 
often  this  out-doors  life  is  led  within  half-a-mile  of 
first-class  social  privileges,  and  amusements  like  the 
Casino  at  Broadmoor. 

19 


The  rugged  dome  of  Pike's  Peak,  seen  from  a 
distance  that  gives  it  its  proper  place,  dominates  all 
that  has  been  described.  To  climb  this  mountain  at 
least  once  was  some  years  ago  the  ambition  of  all  men 
and  most  women,  and  it  was  a  task  of  peril  and  time. 
Then  a  carriage  road  was  made  to  the  summit,  and 
to  go  by  this  road,  either  by  carriage  or  on  horseback, 
was  for  some  years  the  only  way  of  reaching  one  of  the 
highest  accessible  elevations  known  to  travelers.  But 
since  1891  there  is  a  railway,  known  as  the  ''Cog- 
Road,"  that  climbs  to  the  summit  and  as  easily  returns. 
It  is  eight  and  three-quarters  miles  in  length,  and  in 
this  distance  climbs  to  a  height  of  14,147  feet  above 
sea-level.  It  is  a  costly  and  absolutely  secure  structure, 
and  there  is  a  special  feature  in  the  cog-rail  between 
the  tracks  which  alone  weighs  a  hundred  and  ten  tons 
to  the  mile.  At  intervals  the  track  is  anchored  by 
heavy  masonry.  Brakes  are  so  contrived  that  a  train 
can  be  stopped  on  any  grade  of  the  line  within  a  dis- 
tance of  ten  inches.  The  cars  and  engines  stand  at  an 
angle  with  the  tracks,  but  the  seats  are  level.  The 
engine  does  not  draw  the  train,  but  pushes  it.  One  does 
not  often  get  so  high  in  the  world  as  this,  and  the 
sights  and  experiences  of  this  little  journey  above  the 
world  are  not  to  be  described  in  words. 


Climbiug  Son-of-a-Guu  Hill:— Going  up  Pike's  Peak. 


20 


THE  LOOP  JOURNEY/ 

This  excursion  is  a  day's  jaunt  out  of  Denver. 
(Which  is  the  other  western  terminal  of  the  Rock  Isl- 
and line,  as  mentioned  in  a  preceding  page).  It  lies 
upon  the  lines  of  the  U.  P.  D.  and  G.  road,  and  the 
journey  to  it  lies  through  the  famous  Clear  Creek 
Canon. 

This  last-named  defile  in  the  mountains  has  long 
been  known.  In  the  old  times  it  was  a  pass  for  a 
miner's  wagon-road.  When  the  time  came  one  of  the 
first  railway  lines  of  the  State  was  built  through  it.  An 
innumerable  multitude  have  since  seen  it,  and  it  is 
still,  especially  to  all  Colorado  visitors  whose  time  is 
limited,  a  scene  not  to  be  left  out.  Still  beyond  the 
canon,  high  up  on  the  mountain  and  reached  by  the 
same  little  journey  is  the  famous  "Loop" — one  of 
the  celebrated  engineering  feats  of  a  region  where  all 
the  railway  building  is  something  impossible  as  a  the- 
ory, and  nevertheless  is  there  as  an  almost  incredible 
practical  fact. 

From  Denver  to  Golden,  one  of  the  first  mining 
towns  of  the  region,  is  fifteen  miles.  It  is,  in  singular 
contrast  to  what  is  soon  to  follow,  a  country  as  level  as 
a  prairie,  the  bottom  of  an  ancient  sea.  In  the  edge 
of  this  plateau,  which  is  given  over  to  fruit,  grain,  cows 
and  bees,  is  the  opening  into  Clear  Creek  Cafion — a 
thing  sudden,  unexpected  and  opening  upon  the  plain, 
like  the  Cheyenne  canons  and  the  gateway  of  the 
Garden  of  the  Gods. 

It  is  a  fissure  in  the  crust  of  the  world.  The 
indentations  of  one  side  rudely  fit  the  projections  of  the 
opposite  wall.     In  many  places   the  dull  red  walls 

21 


come  very  close  together,  so  that  all  one  sees  of  the 
outer  world  is  a  narrow  ribbon  of  blue  sky  as  one 
looks  upward.  On  a  narrow  level  floor  at  the  bottom 
lies  the  railroad  track.  It  is  very  crooked,  and  has 
to  share  its  occupancy  of  the  place  with  the  roaring 
stream  called  Clear  Creek,  which  the  track  crosses  so 
many  times  that  the  two,  the  roaring  water  and  the 
gliding  train,  leave  a  mingled  and  very 
lasting  'mpression  on  the  memory. 


Cozy  Nook  on  the  Cog-Road  up  Pike's  Peak. 

There  are  places  where  the  sun  never  shines,  and 
others  where,  beyond  the  narrow  walls,  there  are 
glimpses  of  white  peaks  afar  off.  For  two  hours  or 
more  one  is  seated  in  a  gliding  upholstered  box,  these 
vast  walls  closely  fencing  him  on  every  side,  with 
the  boiling  torrent  beneath  him  or  close  beside  him. 
It  is  quite  useless  to  attempt  to  describe  in  detail  the 


sensations  of  the  place.  When  the  line  was  built  there 
was  no  such  place  elsewhere  in  the  world.  Now  the 
striking  incongruity  of  the  work  of  man  and  the  work 
of  God  are  made  to  fit  solely  by  custom  and  the  lapse 
of  time. 

There  is  a  V-shaped  opening  at  the  western  end 
of  the  cafion,  and  in  this  stands  Idaho  Springs,  a  min- 
ing town,  where  glimpses  may  be  caught  of  this  mining 
industry    and    the    men    who    are    engaged    in    it. 
The  scene  is  new  to  al- 
most    all     visitors,     for 
mines    and    mining    are 
things  apart  to  the  ma- 
jority of  mankind.     But 
the  place  is  also  a  famous 
health  -  resort.        The 
springs  are  both  hot  and 
cold  mineral  waters,  and 
there    is    a    well-known 
natural  vapor  bath  and 
a  boiling  springs.     For 
people   actually   ill,   and 
seeking  immediate  reme- 
dies,     Idaho       Springs 
shares  to  some  extent  the 
fame  of  Manitou.    Certain 
qualities   of   the   climate   and 
temperature  are  also  similar  to 

^,  1      ^  ^       /--   1         J      starting  up  tbe  Cog-Road  from  Manitou  Depot:— 

those      prevalent      at      Colorado  Engine  Pushes  the  Car. 

Springs,  the  ideal  town  health-resort  of  Colorado. 

The  railroad  continues  to  thread  the  narrow  val- 
ley; a  widened  extension  of  Clear  Creek  Caiion;  to 
Georgetown.  This  is  also  a  mining  town,  and  one  of 
the  first.  These  high  mountain  towns,  sheltered  by 
still  higher  ranges,  have  all  a  more  even  climate  than  ' 


Denver  has  on  the  edge  of  the  plains.  It  will  be  found 
that  this  mining  region  is  full  of  strong  men  who, 
when  they  came  here,  were  ''lungers"  who  got  well. 
The  semi-invalid  can  live  all  the  year  out  of  doors, 
and  many  of  them  almost  do,  and  the  invalids  have 
gone  wherever  circumstances  and  occupation  drew 
them  in  these  mountains.  The  sheltered  valley,  wher- 
ever it  lies  in  central  and  southern  Colorado,  is  the 
residence  of  hundreds  of  stalwart  men  of  the  class 
that  dies  in  about  two  years  elsewhere. 

Above  Georgetown  is  the  famous  "Loop."  The 
mining  town  of  Silver  Plume  lies  at  end  of  track  high 
above  Georgetown.  Many  eastern  lines  have 
"Horse-shoes,"  and  "Mule-shoes,"  and  lesser  won- 
ders in  the  way  of  curves,  and  they  call  public  atten- 
tion to  them  as  engineering  feats  worthy  of  particular 
notice.  This  "Loop"  far  excels  in  intricacy  and  dif- 
ficulty anything  the  old-fashioned  civil  engineer  ever 
imagined  possible. 

The  doubles  and  curves  are  carried  to  a  dizzy 
extreme.  It  is  a  twisted  and  intricate  mountain-climb- 
ing coil.  One  can  look  out  of  a  car  window  and  see 
at  least  five  tracks  below  him,  and  know  that  he  has 
just  been  over  them  all.  The  work  lies  about  ten  thou- 
sand feet  above  sea-level. 

To  reach  certain  mines  was  the  purpose  of  the 
building  of  the  Loop,  and  it  is  not  likely  that  the 
builders  had  any  idea  of  adding  their  daring  work  to 
the  mountain  view,  or  of  making  it  a  tourist's  attrac- 
tion. But  the  result  is  that  Clear  Creek  Canon  and 
the  Loop,  all  included  in  a  one-day  journey  out  of 
Denver,  is  a  regular  item  of  the  Colorado  program, 
and  thousands  of  visitors  make  the  journey  every 
year. 

There  are  other  places  that  this  journey  ought  to 

24 


be  made  to  include.  Narrow  and  shut-in  as  the  place 
is,  there  is  a  railway  junction  in  the  Clear  Creek 
Cafion  where  a  side  caiion  branches  off.  Trains  run 
down  there  and  ''connect"  with  all  due  formality.  One 
can  see  this  connecting  train  for  as  much  as  eighty  or  a 
hundred  feet  as  it  comes  and  goes.  The  junction  sta- 
tion is  known  by  the  very  matter-of-fact  name  of 
"Forks-of-the-Creek,"  and  there  is  even  a  very 
good  lunch  counter  there  wedged  in  between  casual 
fissures  of  the  caiion  walls. 


The  Famous  "Loop"  near 

Denver:— a  Charming 

One-Day  Trip. 

This  branch  line  runs  to  the  famous  mining  towns 
of  Black  Hawk  and  Central  City.  Going  on  by  the 
main  line  to  Idaho  Springs,  or  coming  back  after  see- 
ing the  Loop  and  leaving  the  train  at  that  point,  one 
can  go  across  from  Idaho  Springs  to  both  Black  Hawk 
and  Central  City,  by  stage.  It  is  a  ride  of  only  six  miles 
to  Black  Hawk,  and  is  done  in  an  hour,  and  Central 
City  is  near  by.  These  places  are  in  the  famous  little 
Colorado  county  of  Gilpin — after  all  is  said  and  done 
almost,  if  not  entirely,  the  richest  and  most  long-endur- 


ing  of  the  mining  districts  of  modern  times.  Russell 
Gulch,  on  this  stage  line,  ruins  now,  is  the  place  where, 
in  1858,  the  first  paying  gold  mine  east  of  California 
was  discovered. 

At  Central  City  one  finds  that  he  can  walk  to 
Black  Hawk  easily  in  a  few  minutes,  while  by  rail  the 
journey  is  a  distance  of  four  miles.  On  this  line  be- 
tween the  two  towns  is  the  only  permanent  railway 
"switchback"  in  the  world. 

Once  in  Black  Hawk  the  train  may  be  taken 
back  to  Denver,  it  being  eleven  miles  down  to  the 
junction  in  Clear  Creek  Canon,  previously  mentioned. 

There  are  other  scenes  and  places  that  may  be 
considered  before  returning  to  Denver  if  one  pleases. 
Two  and  one-half  miles  from  Georgetown  is  the  fa- 
mous Green  Lake.  It  lies  10,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
Everything  about  it  has  a  tinge  of  green ;  water,  sand, 
moss,  are  all  tinted  green  or  greenish.  Sometimes, 
when  the  mountain  shadows  are  right,  the  bottom 
can  be  seen.  There  is  an  ancient  forest  there,  the  trees 
still  standing,  but  they  are  turned  to  stone.  The  lake  is 
full  of  fishes. 

If  one  wants  to  ride  seven  miles,  one  can  go 
over  Argentine  Pass,  which  is  the  highest  wagon- 
road  in  the  world.  The  view  from  there  is  the  reward 
of  the  journey,  which  hundreds  of  tourists  make 
every  year 

One  day's  ride  from  Georgetown  lies  Grand  Lake, 
the  largest  body  of  water  in  Colorado.  It  is  also,  with 
its  numerous  confluent  streams,  one  of  the  famous 
fishing  places.  In  the  surrounding  region  there  is 
game  in  plentifulness  for  these  late  times.  As  a 
hunting  region  the  place  was  a  few  years  ago  famous. 

Lastly,  there  is  Gray's  Peak.  It  is  a  little  higher 
than  Pike's,  but  it  is  more  accessible.     The  excursion 


26 


to  the  top  is  often  made,  either  from  Georgetown  or 
Idaho  Springs,  and  it  is  counted  one  of  the  most 
enjoyable  jaunts  in  Colorado. 

It  is  not  intended  here  to  give  more  than  a  brief 
sketch  of  the  possibilities  of  this  Loop  journey  out  of 
Denver  into  one  of  the  most  famous  of  mountain  dis- 
tricts. It  is  an  excursion  of  one  day,  or  of  a  week,  or  a 
month,  or  all  Summer.  There  is  not,  however,  a  mo- 
ment's hardship  or  inconvenience,  and  the  excursion 
is  a  frequent  one  for  ladies  and  mixed  parties.     The 


•9^*-" 

5?*^ 


Summit  House,  Pike's  Peak :— Altitude,  14,147  Feet. 

total  expenditure  is  little,  if  any,  greater  than  that  re- 
quired in  daily  life. 

Glenwood  Springs. — This  resort  is  reached  by 
both  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  and  the  Colorado 
Midland  roads,  in  both  cases  from  Colorado  Springs, 
or  from  Denver  by  way  of  that  place.  It  is  usual  to  go 
to  Colorado  Springs  and  Manitou,  and  thence  to  Glen- 
wood Springs  and  return,  afterwards  going  to  Denver 
and  beyond.  It  is  evident,  however,  that  the  process 
may  be  as  easily  reversed. 

Glenwood  Springs  shares  with  Manitou  an  almost 
equal  fame  as  a  springs  pleasure  and  health  resort. 

27 


The  place  is  at  the  junction  of  two  mountain  streams. 
Grand  River  and  Roaring  Fork,  and  sits  in  a  valley 
that  is  shaped  like  an  irregular  elongated  bowl.  The 
springs  themselves  are  phenomenal,  and  among  the 
most  remarkable  in  any  land.  They  run  out  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  and  the  flow  varies  between  twenty 
and  thirty  thousand  cubic  inches  every  second.  Those 
on  the  north  side  are  hot;  140  degrees  Fahrenheit; 
and  this  stream  is  made  to  flow  through  an  aqueduct 
around  a  little  island.  On  this  island  stands  the  fa- 
mous bathing-house.  In  this,  forty-four  bath-rooms 
are  supplied  with  hot,  warm  or  cold  mineral  water, 
and  the  same  temperatures  in  fresh  water,  and  show- 
ers in  either  kind.  Besides  these  arrangements  is  the 
swimming-bath.  It  is  an  immense  oval  tank,  out  of 
doors,  full  of  warm  or  hot  water,  and  graded  in  depths 
from  three  feet  to  five  and  a  half  feet.  Besides  the 
cold  water  used  to  reduce  the  temperature,  two  thous- 
and gallons  of  hot  mineral  water  flow  into  this  swim- 
ming-place every  minute. 

These  remarkable  features,  the  equal  of  which 
are  not  known  to  exist  elsewhere  among  the  innumer- 
able watering-places  of  the  world,  are  supplemented 
by  a  hotel  that  takes  rank  among  the  very  best.  There 
are  two  hundred  guest-rooms,  in  nearly  all  of  which 
are  open  fire-places,  and  there  is  every  convenience  of 
heat,  electric  light  and  attendance  known  in  a  city  hotel 
of  the  first  class.  The  refinement,  culture  and  "style'* 
of  Newport  and  Saratoga  are  at  least  duplicated  at 
both  Glenwood  Springs  and  Manitou. 


RAILWAY  JOURNEYS  IN  COLORADO. 

The  unequalled  scenic  qualities  of  the  railway  lines 
in  Colorado  have  been  mentioned  in  preceding  pages. 
It  is  a  tourist's  custom  to  use  them  for  scenic  purposes, 
and  hundreds  of  travellers  every  year  start  on  these 
mountain  journeys  with  no  destination  or  with  be- 
tween-trains  stopping  places  only,  in  their  minds,  going 
and  coming  back  to  some  chosen  stopping-place  for 
the  mere  purpose  of,  as  one  might  say,  looking  out  of 
a  car-window  at  the  country. 

Taking  any  one  of  the  lines  the  journey  is  well 
worth  the  cost  and  trouble,  though  the  custom  of  so 
travelling  is  something  almost  unknown  anywhere  else 
in  the  world.  A  list  of  what  one  sees  would  make 
an  extensive  catalog.  There  are  a  hundred  and  fifty- 
five  mountains  near  these  lines  that  are  over  thirteen 
thousand  feet  high.  That  is  more  than  ten  times  as 
many  as  there  are  in  all  Europe.  One  deals  with  all 
the  majesties  during  every  moment  of  his  journey; 
mountains,  parks,  crags,  canons,  waterfalls,  pinnacles, 
cliflfs,  buttes;  all  spread  out  on  a  scale  of  almost  in- 
conceiyable  magnificence. 

In  the  recesses  of  the  mountains  there  are  scenes 
one  finds  for  oneself;  places  unnamed  and  known 
in  detail  only  to  the  wandering  prospector.  Vast  and 
broken  stretches  of  forest  still  hold  the  game  of  the 
old  times;  panthers,  mountain  lions,  four  kinds  of 
bears,  deer,  occasional  elks,  antelope ;  and  porcupines, 
lynxes  and  wildcats  as  smaller  varieties. 

There  are  six  thousand  miles  of  running  water, 
and  in  these  streams  all  the  fishing-places  are  by  no 
means  yet  usually  visited.     There  are  some  five  hun- 

29 


dred  lakes  in  all,  many  of  them  as  beautiful  as  any  of 
those  where  the  hotels  are. 

Mineral  springs  are  nature's  specialty  here.  No 
one  knows  how  many  there  are  besides  those  well- 
known  and  constantly  visited,  such  as  Manitou,  Glen- 
wood,  Poncha,  Pagosa,  Buena  Vista,  Ouray,  Idaho, 
Caiion  City,  etc.  Every  stopping  place  has  its  especial 
waters,  and  at  many  of  these  there  has  been  a  lavish 
expenditure  of  money.  Others,  destined  to  fame  in 
the  future,  are  visited  now  only  by  the  animals  and 
the  old  prospectors  and  ranchfolk  who  know  their 
virtues.  Of  the  known  places  the  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  road  alone  can  list  some  two  dozen  springs 
and  health  resorts. 

The  Colorado  Midland  line  has  less  mileage  and 
covers  a  much  smaller  extent  of  country,  but  it  easily 
names  fourteen  known  resorts,  besides  twice  or  thrice 
as  many  famous  pieces  of  scenery. 

A  third  line,  the  Union  Pacific,  Denver  and  Gulf, 
has  the  Clear  Creek  canon  line  and  the  country  beyond, 
which  has  been  partially  described. 

The  line  to  Leadville  and  Gunnison  is  often  taken 
by  tourists,  partly  for  the  scenery  and  partly  because 
the  most  famous  gold-mining  "camp"  in  the  world  lies 
at  the  end  of  it. 

Of  how  easily  the  tourist  places  himself  amid  the 
wonders  of  the  mountains  on  a  railroad  train  the  trip 
through  Clear  Creek  canon,  described  above,  may  be 
taken  as  an  instance.  Another  is  the  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  south  from  Colorado  Springs  to  Pueblo  and 
thence  eastward  to  Caiion  City  and  beyond.  An  hour's 
ride  places  the  traveler  between  the  walls  of  the  Royal 
Gorge — the  cooling-crack  that  opened  in  its  crust  when 
the  world  was  young — and  through  which  now  run 
the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  river.    It  shares  this  nar- 

30 


row  bed  with  the  railway-track,  and  the  traveler  looks 
upward  half  a  mile  at  an  awe-inspiring  scene  that  has 
often  been  attempted  to  be  described. 

Up  to  Marshall  Pass  after  this  it  is  an  upward 
climb  amid  scenery  that  is  unequalled  in  magnificence, 
and  on  a  road  whose  crooks  and  turns  are  bewilder- 
ing. It  is  not  a  singular  fact  at  all  that  this  journey 
has  never  been  really  described.    You  sit  still  in  a  rail- 


Cog-Road  and  Traiu  in  Ruxton  Canon:— Eu  Route  to  Pikes  Peak. 

way  car  and  catch  striking  glimpses  of  it  for  a  day, 
and  after  that  you  do  not  even  want  to  talk  about  it. 

''around  the  circle.'' 

There  is  a  Colorado  railway  journey  so  far  not 
mentioned,  that  is  usually  spoken  of  as  "Around  the 
Circle" — a  circle  of  several  hundred  miles  in  circum- 
ference. 

81 


This  line  traverses  the  largest  of  the  Colorado 
parks;  San  Luis;  and  reaches  the  ancient  capital  of 
Santa  Fe  in  the  center  of  the  oldest  civilization  of  the 
continent.  Some  of  the  grades  are  211  feet  to  the  mile, 
and  yet  as  the  train  leaves  Poncha  Pass,  a  scene  as 
indescribable  as  any  in  Colorado,  and  begins  its  jour- 
ney across  the  rim  of  the  great  mountain  amphitheater, 
it  has  a  bee-line  of  fifty-six  miles — the  longest  piece 
of  railroad  track  without  a  curve  not  alone  in  America, 
but  in  the  world. 

On  this  circle  journey  lies  the  famous  Toltec 
Gorge,  where  the  train  crosses  a  range  at  an  elevation 
of  10,015  feet. 

The  line  crosses  the  Ute  and  the  Apache  Indian 
Reservations,  and  all  the  now  gentle  savages  who  are 
near  enough  come  every  day  to  the  nearest  station  to 
see  the  train  pass. 

There  is  a  place  on  the  line  where  there  is  a  cliff 
a  thousand  feet  high.  Half  way  up  there  is  a  shelf; 
a  kind  of  colossal  bracket  against  a  mountain  wall. 
On  this  shelf  the  track  is  laid,  and  trains  run  there  be- 
tween heaven  and  earth,  five  hundred  feet  from  the  top 
and  five  hundred  from  the  bottom.  The  road  at  this 
point  cost  $115,000  for  a  single  mile. 

Some  of  the  scenes  of  the  line  are  the  ruins  of  the 
strange  houses  of  the  ancient  cliff-dwellers  at  Mancos 
caiion,  near  Mancos  station,  of  which  a  description  is 
given  on  another  page.  Rico,  Lost  Cafion,  the  Valley 
of  the  Dolores,  the  sharp  pinnacles  of  the  Needle  moun- 
tains, Sultan  mountain.  Lizard  Head  pass,  the  cele- 
brated piece  of  engineering  known  as  the  Ophir  Loop, 
and  the  Black  Canon,  are  all  seen  on  this  "circle" 
journey. 


32 


THE  CLIFF  DWELLERS. 

The  ancient  cliff-dwelling  region  of  Colorado, 
Utah,  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  furnishes  scenic  gran- 
deurs of  thrilling  interest,  awakening  in  the  visitor 
desires  to  study  from  evidences  at  hand  the  laws 
and  customs  of  this  supposed  lost  race. 

The  district  where  with  great' profit  and  interest 
this  research  can  be  prosecuted  is  about  150  miles 


CLIFF  PALACE.— Mesa  Verde,  Colorada.  seven  stories  high,  containing 
1,100  rooms.     Overhanging  cliff,  300  feet. 

long  and  70  miles  wide,  and  lies  in  two  territories  and 
two  states  above  mentioned,  the  starting  or  base  point 
being  Mancos,  a  small  town  on  the  D.  &  R.  G.  R'y, 
near  the  south-west  corner  of  Colorado.  Tours 
through  this  region  can  be  made  covering  three, 
five,  ten  or  twenty  days,  and  the  expense  is  within 
the  possibilities  of  all  tourists,  being  but  $5.00  per 
day,  which  covers  all  expenses  for  guides,   horses, 

33 


camp  and  meals,  and  your  choice  in  duration  of 
trip  is  granted  you. 

Possibly  the  most  popular  one  occupies  about 
three  or  four  days,  and  includes  a  trip  from  Mancos  to 
Cave  Houses  and  back  to  the  Aztec  ruins,  then  north 
to  the  railroad  town  Dolores  on  the  D.  &  R.  G.  R'y, 
and  the  Famous  Cliff  Palace  is  visited  on  this  trip. 
It-  is  perched  several  hundred  feet  above  the  valley 
on  a  ledge  just  large  enough  to  hold  it,  and  was  prac- 
tically a  two-story  fiat;  the  lower  one  contained  one 
htmdred  and  twenty-seven  rooms. 

On  one  of  the  short  tours  other  Aztec  ruins  are 
inspected,  and  here  we  find  several  large  buildings 
that  were  each  seventy  feet  square,  and  many  stories 
in  height.  This  was  the  point  reached  by  Valdez 
Coronado  and  his  command,  in  1540,  while  he  was 
searching  for  the  supposed  seven  cities  of  the  seven 
churches.  The  Bonito  ruins  on  the  San  Juan  river, 
a  short  trip  from  Durango,  are  the  most  wonderful  in 
New  Mexico.  They  are  half  moon-like,  or  rather 
crescent,  in  shape,  600  feet  front,  and  once  contained 
2,000  rooms. 

A  very  interesting  point  in  these  short  tours  is 
the  monument  that  marks  the  corners  of  the  four 
states  and  territories.  It  is  a  mound  of  stone  four 
feet  square  at  base,  six  feet  high,  and  name  of  each 
state  or  territory  is  carved  in  the  appropriate  side, 
as  it  stands  at  an  angle,  and  each  full  side  is  in  its 
respective  state.  If  one  lays  their  hand  on  the  center 
of  apex,  that  hand  temporarily  rests  in  two  states 
and  two  territories.  There  is  no  other  place  on  earth 
that  these  conditions  attain. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  these  trips,  as  each 
day  reveals  facts  of  great  value  to  the  student  or 
scientist.  Ladies  and  gentlemen  both  join  these 
excursions,  and  particular  care  is  taken  to  provide 
for  the  ladies  in  a  manner  that  they  will  be  especially 
pleased  with  this  form  of  roughing  it. 

34 


THE   MINING   TOWNS. 


The  mining  interests  of  Colorado  are  of  course 
immense,  and  there  is  a  special  literature  on  the  subject. 
The  two  largest  ''camps"  are  Leadville  and  Cripple 
Creek,  and  both  are  very  easy  of  access  by  rail  from 
either  Denver  or  Colorado  Springs.  As  American 
towns  they  possess  features  that  are  unique,  both  in 
situation  and  in  the  features  of  their  exclusive  indus- 
tries. But  the  "wild  and  woolly"  is  now  an  ancient 
story,  much  exaggerated  even  when  to  some  degree 
the  phrase  was  current. 
There  is  in  the  orderly  life 
of  these  great  mining 
towns  little  that  is  outside 
the  usual  lines  of  Amer- 
ican citizenship.  The  home 
and  the  woman,  the  church 
and  the  school,  are  there  as 
elsewhere.  But  the  story 
of  gold  in  Colorado  is  a 
great  romance,  whose  cen- 
ters are  in  Leadville,  Crip- 
ple Creek,  the  mines  of  Gil- 
pin county,  and  the  lonely 
camp  of  the  prospector  in  the  mountains.  Between  the 
scenes  of  a  Colorado  mining  town  and  the  glittering 
double-Eagle  of  the  U.  S.  mint  there  is  the  greatest 
difference  that  ever  existed  between  an  industry  and 
its  product,  and  this  difference  is  what  the  visitor  to 
Leadville  and  Cripple  Creek  comes  to  see. 


Tents  in  the  Outskirts  of  Mauitou,  and  Common 
Everywhere  in  the  Locality. 


85 


THE  HUNTER  AND  ANGLER  IN  COLORADO. 

It  may  be  said  in  this  field  that  the  term  "hunting 
country"  no  longer  means  what  it  once  meant,  because 
in  later  times  men  have  gone  everywhere  for  other 
purposes  than  hunting,  but  with  the  killing  instinct 
still  upon  them.  But  if  there  is  any  region  that  now 
answers  to  the  term  at  all  it  may  be  found  in  the  north- 
ern portions  and  outlying  districts  of  Colorado. 

If  it  is  a  hunting  country  at  all  it  is  the  one  most 
easily  reached  by  rail  and  in  a  Pullman  car.  The  cli- 
mate in  the  hunting  season  is  much  milder  than  that 
of  the  northern  hunting  fields  that  extend  from  north- 
ern Wisconsin  into  Canada.  There  is  always  here  a 
ranch,  a  mine,  a  little  town,  a  settlement  or  a  pros- 
pector's camp  not  very  far  away ;  something  to  eat,  a 
fire,  good  women,  kindly  men. 

There  have  always  been  a  certain  number  of  men 
to  whom  this  mountain  region  is  familiar.  They  pros- 
pect in  summer  and  hunt  and  trap  in  winter.  All  these 
know  where  large  game  is  to  be  found.  If  the  eastern 
man  comes  here  to  hunt  the  first  thing  is  to  find  the 
man,  and  later  he  will  find  the  game. 

It  may  be  remarked  in  this  connection  that  it  will 
not  in  these  times  be  profitable  to  come  hither  to  learn, 
for  the  first  time,  how  to  hit  a  gray  or  a  light  brown 
spot  some  hundreds  of  yards  away. 

Pine  forests  still  cover  a  large  portion  of  Colorado. 
Some  of  these  are  almost  as  they  were  when  the  Utes 
hunted  in  them.  Any  prospector  will  affirm  that  there 
is  nothing  more  common  than  game-tracks  near  the 
streams.  Often  elk  and  deer  are  seen  by  people  not 
hunting.    Ranchmen  often  have  them  as  visitors. 

36 


For  men  who  can  kill  when  they  find,  the  favorite 
hunting  grounds  are  in  Routt,  Garfield  and  Grand 
counties,  in  the  northern  and  northwestern  portions  of 
the  state.  If  there  is  not  large  game  there — and  some 
say  there  is,  while  others  declare  the  days  of  hunting 
to  be  gone  everywhere — it  will  be  little  use  to  expect 
to  find  it  anywhere  in  the  west.  The  region  where 
there  are  foothills,  the  land  lying  between  plain 
and  mountain,  is  the  natural  home 
of  the  elk.  Now,  the  further 
one  goes  from  human  sights 
and  sounds  the  surer  one  is 
to  find  the  big  shy  game  that 
is  rapidly  disappearing  in  all 
localities. 

In  the  times  of  the  Indians 
Colorado  was  the  best  hunting 
field  known.  The  encroach- 
ments of  the  white  men  since 
that  time  have  had  one  nat- 
ural consequence.  They  have 
narrowed  the  range  of  the 
game,  but  they  have  driven  it 
in  greater  numbers  into  the 
special  localities  where  natural 
conditions  remain.  This  un- 
occupied region  is  still  in  the 
aggregate  an  area  as  large 
as  the  state  of  Illinois.  It  is  useless  under  such  circum- 
stances to  prescribe  given  localities  to  an  accomplished 
hunter.  Scores  of  men  in  Colorado  are  still  hunting 
every  winter,  and  to  some  of  them  it  is  an  occupation. 
Every  one  of  them  knows,  if  he  would  always  tell,  of 
more  than  one  good  hunting  field.  A  companion  or 
guide  is  necessary  to  every  stranger.    When  this  per- 

37 


Summer  House  on  tbe  Cog  Uoad  up  Pike's  Peak. 


son  is  found  there  is  no  question  of  big-game  hunting, 
and  in  a  large  region.  The  best  hunting,  here  and  else- 
where, is  obtained  only  by  him  who  departs  deliberately 
out  of  the  haunts  of  civilization,  lives  in  a  cabin,  does 
nothing  but  hunt  while  so  engaged,  and  stays  long 
enough  to  become  familiar  with  the  ways  of  the  game 
and  the  geography  of  the  locality.  All  this  is  not  so 
easy  as  it  v/as,  even  in  Africa,  and  the  time  is  rapidly 


Near  Aspen,  Colorado. 

approaching  when  the  hunting  field  will  be  a  game- 
preserve,  as  it  is  in  Europe. 

In  fishing  the  situation  is  very  different.  Colorado 
has  always  been,  and  remains,  a  kind  of  angler's  para- 
dise. There  are  eight  principal  rivers,  flowing  in  all 
directions  from  their  sources  in  the  mountains,  and 
constantly  increasing  in  volume  from  innumerable 
tributaries.     In  all  these  streams,  numbering  several 


hundred,  the  mountain  trout  is  a  native.    In  their  head- 
waters he  still  exists  by  thousands. 

But  he  has  had  his  troubles.  To  begin  with,  for 
many  years  the  native  mountain  trout  has  been  angled 
for  by  all  the  natives  and  all  the  visitors.  Fishing  for 
him  has  been  as  much  the  pastime  of  the  Colorado  boy 
as  angling  for  sunfish  and  suckers  and  bullheads  has 
been  that  of  the  youth  of  lowland 
countries.  Among  the  early 
miners  trout  for  breakfast 
was  expected  in  every  min- 
er's shack.  As  a  natural 
consequence,  in  all  fre- 
quented places  and  eas- 
ily accessible  streams,  the 
mountain  trout  are  grow- 
ing every  year  harder  to 
get.  The  recipe  for  still 
getting  him  is  to  go  further 
and  into  more  secluded  wa- 
ters. In  these  they  are 
still  caught  very  success- 
fully. 

But  now  the  California 
trout  is  propagated  in  these 
streams,  and  also  the  rain- 
bow trout  of  the  east.  The  ^^^  ^'^'«- 
exchange  is  not  detrimental.  The  mountain  trout 
is  a  dainty  and  capricious  little  fish,  having  ideas  in- 
compatible with  the  least  degree  of  civilization.  On 
the  contrary  the  rainbow  trout  grows  to  a  great  size  in 
these  streams,  specimens  weighing  several  pounds  be- 
ing often  caught.  He  is  game  enough  to  please  the 
average  angler,  rapid  in  growth,  and  many  times  more 
prolific  than  the  mountain  trout. 


At  the  Foot  of  the  Seven  Falls 
South  Cheyenne  Canon. 


The  fish-supply  of  the  Colorado  streams  may  be 
depended  upon  because  of  the  precautions  taken. 
There  is  a  government  hatchery  at  Leadville,  and  the 
laws  respecting  the  times  for  angling  are  rigidly  en- 
forced. The  railways  assist.  A  notable  example  is 
the  South  Platte,  once  one  of  the  natural  trout  streams. 
Here  every  year  the  railways  plant  about  200,000 
young  trout.  Platte  Caiion  remains 
indefinitely  a  favorite  fishing- 
place. 

The  Gunnison  river  is  an- 
other famous  fishing  stream, 
carefully  preserved,  and  there 
are  many  smaller  brooks  and 
streams  in  all  parts  of  Col- 
orado. As  in  hunting,  the 
further  one  goes  away  from 
the  ordinary  haunts  of  men 
the  better. 

The  hunting  grounds  are 
therefore  as  well  the  best  fish- 
ing grounds.  The  tailings 
of  mines  and  the  refuse  of 
saw  mills  spoil  the  fishing 
naturally,  and  without  any 
question.  But  the  broad 
statement  may  be  made 
that  nowhere  else  in  the  world  are  there  so  many 
game-fish  streams  as  still  remain  in  Colorado,  and  that 
every  stream  that  has  not  had  its  waters  spoiled  by 
mines  and  saw  mills  is  still  a  fishing-water.  There  is 
no  actual  truth  in  the  statement  that  the  days  of  angling 
in  Coloraao  are  at  an  end  because  in  most  places  there 
are  no  longer  any  mountain  trout.  Any  one  who  loves 
the  pines  and  mountains  may  combine  the  rest  and  the 

40 


scenery  with  angling.  One  cannot  catch  trout  in  Clear 
Creek  now,  or  have  luck  with  the  rod  and  line  in  a 
mountain  stream  behind  a  palatial  hotel  at  Manitou, 
but  a  fisherman  can  find  the  fish,  and  besides  the  places 
where  everybody  goes  he  can  easily  reach  a  domain 
where  he  and  the  fishes  can  come  to  an  understanding 
with  respect  to  bait. 


The  Half- Way  House:— Going  up  Pike's  Peak. 

The  statutes  of  Colorado  permit  the  killing  of 
game  birds  between  August  15th  and  November  ist. 
Waterfowl  may  be  killed  between  September  ist  and 
May  1st.  Deer  and  elk  are  in  season  between  August 
1st  and  November  ist.  The  killing  of  any  buffalo  or 
mountain  sheep  is  absolutely  prohibited.  It  is  lawful 
to  take  fish,  with  the  hook  and  line  only,  from  June 
1st  to  December  ist.  Seining,  netting,  and  all  use  of 
poison  and  explosives  are  positively  prohibited  under 
heavy  penalties. 


41 


ABOUT  THE  JOURNEY 


To  the  traveler  to  Colorado,  whether  business  man 
or  tourist,  the  GREAT  ROCK  ISLAND  ROUTE 
offers  a  train  complete  in  all  the  requirements,  con- 
veniences and  luxuries  of  modern  travel.  This  short 
chapter  will  briefly  describe  this  train  and  its  route 
and  explain  why  the  ever  popular  ''BIG  FIVE"  should 


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Rock  Island  Route:— New  Broad  Vestibuled  Cars. 

be  preferred  in  a  journey  to  Colorado  the  Magnifi- 
cent. 

BIG  FIVE  leaves  Chicago  io:oo  p.  m.,  an  hour 
which  permits  the  use  of  the  entire  business  day  in 
Chicago  and  also  ensures  through  connections  with  all 
principal  trains  from  the  East.  But  one  daylight  day 
is  taken  for  the  journey;  Denver,  Colorado  Springs 
and  Pueblo  being  reached  early  the  next  morning.  The 
tourist,  upon  arrival,  can  connect  with  morning  trains 
to  interior  Colorado  points,  while  the  man  of  commerce 
has  an  unbroken  business  day  at  his  disposal. 

42 


Leaving  Chicago,  the  BIG  FIVE  passes  first 
through  a  part  of  the  charming  IlHnois  Valley  with  its 
thriving  cities,  thence  crossing  the  Mississippi  at  Rock 
Island  (where  connection  is  made  from  Peoria)  and 
Davenport,  from  whence  the  rails  stretch  across  the 
fertile  fields  of  Iowa,  passing  through  the 
state  capital,  Des  Moines. 
Shortly  after  noon  the 
train  steams  over  the 
Missouri  River  bridge 
between  Council  Bluffs 
and  Omaha.  Leav- 
ing Omaha,  south- 
eastern Nebraska  is 
traversed,  a  stop  being 
made  at  another  state 
capital,  Lincoln,  and 
shortly  after  the  great 
corn-growing  state  of 
Kansas  is  entered.  At 
Belleville  connection  is 
made  with  train  from 
Kansas  City,  and  in  the 
gathering  dusk  BIG 
FIVE  sweeps  over  the 

wide-stretching  prairie  and  into  Colorado,  where  the 
morning  finds  the  newly-arisen  passengers  gazing  eag- 
erly at  the  cloud-like  peaks  in  the  western  sky.  At 
Limon  the  train  divides,  one  section  going  to  Denver, 
the  other  to  Colorado  Springs  and  Pueblo.  The 
ROCK-ISLAND  is  the  only  line  running  into  Colo- 
rado Springs  from  the  East. 

The  train  was  built  expressly  for  this  service, 
and  all  conditions  have  been  shaped  to  satisfy  the  most 
fastidious  passenger.     From  the  electric  light  of  the 

43 


Interior.  New  Broad 

Full-Vestibuled 
Sleepers. 


Private  State-Room 


engine  to  the  rear  platform  of  the  last  coach  there  is 
perfect  equipment.  The  train  is  broad-vestibuled 
throughout.  Its  interiors  are  spacious  and  handsomely 
decorated,  while  wide  windows  of  heavy  plate  glass, 
convenient  for  observation,  line  the  sides. 

Let  us  examine  this 
moving  hotel  in  which 
the  passenger  from  Chi- 
cago eats,  sleeps  and  en- 
joys life  for  two  nights 
and  a  day.  Entering  the 
Buffet  Library  Car  we 
find  a  main  parlor  or 
smoking  room,  provided 
with  movable  easy 
chairs,  writing-desk  plen- 
tifully supplied  with  fine 
stationery,  illustr  a  t  e  d 
periodicals,  the  daily 
newspapers  and  a  select 
library  of  recent 
fiction. 

Beyond  this,  the 
Pullman  Sleepers  pre- 
sent views  of  interiors 
charming  in  superb 
appointments  and 
richly  elegant  furnishings,  the  evidence  and  a  promise 
of  luxurious  travel. 

The  Dining  Car  in  which  all  meals  are  served 
makes  more  manifest  the  perfection  of  BIG  FIVE, 
while  its  position  in  the  middle  of  the  train  renders  it 
easy  of  access  from  sleeper  and  coach  alike.  Its  main 
apartment  is  exceedingly  commodious,  the  effect  of 
the  handsome  decorations  being  increased  by  the  sheen 


of  linen,  the  glitter  of 
glass  and  silver  and  the 
fragrance  of  flowers. 
The  Rock  Island  Dining 
Car  Service  is  the  best  in 
the  world.  Breakfast 
and  supper  are  served 
a-la-carte,  and  an  excel- 
lent noon  luncheon  is 
supplied  for  fifty  cents. 

The  Chair  cars  follow- 
ing are  equipped  with 
comfortable  free  reclin- 
ing chairs,  and  fitted 
with  lavatories  and 
smoking  and  toilet 
rooms. 

The  Eastbound  run  of 
this  train  is  also  sched- 
uled for  economy  of  time 
and  convenience  to  the 
passenger,  leaving  Pu- 
eblo 7:05  p.  m.,  Colo- 
rado Springs  8:40  p.  m.,  Denver  9:30  p.  m.,  and 
arriving  Chicago  7:59  a.  m.,  thus  consuming  but  one 
full  business  day  in  the  return  journey. 

Travelers  desiring  to  go  via  Kansas  City  or  St. 
Joseph  can  leave  Chicago  on  No.  1 1  at  5  45  p.  rh., 
connecting  with  the  BIG  FIVE  at  Belleville.  This 
train  is  also  excellently  equipped  with  broad  vestibuled 
Pullman  Sleepers,  Free  Chair  Cars,  Buflfet  Library  Car 
and  Dining  Car  to  Kansas  City. 


Toilet  Room. 


Additional  Colorado  Service  from  Missouri  River 
points  is  given  in  the  "Colorado  Flyer,"  a  very  fast 


train  leaving  Kansas  City  at  6:30  p.  m.,  St.  Joseph  5:00 
p.  m.,  and  Omaha  5:20  P-  ni.,  arriving  Denver  11  :oo 
and  Colorado  Springs  10:35  "^-^^  morning.  East- 
bound  the  "Colorado  Flyer"  leaves  Colorado  Springs 
2:35  P-  ^-y  Denver  2:35  p.  m.,  arriving  Omaha  9:50 
a.  m.,  St.  Joseph  10:40  a.  m.,  Kansas  City  9:15  a.  m. 
As  shown  by  the  time,  this  service  is  excellent,  while 
the  equipment  is  surpassed  by  none,  a  combination 
which  renders  this  train  deservedly  popular. 

The  excellent  Colorado  train  service  spoken  of  in 
the  preceding  pages  has  been  very  greatly  improved 
this  season  by  the  addition  of  a  new  fast  train,  only 
one  night  out  between  Chicago  and  Colorado  common 
points.  This  new  train,  known  as  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Limited,  will  be  equipped  with  latest  improved 
sleepers,  buffet-library-smoker,  chair  cars  ( free 
reclining)  and  diner  for  all  meals  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River. 

It  will  leave  Chicago  at  1:00  p.  m.  daily,  and 
arrive  at  Colorado  Springs  at  4:30  p.  m.,  Denver,  4:45. 
Note  particularly  the  convenient  hours  of  departure 
and  arrival. 

This  train  with  its  connections,  which  can  be 
made  by  various  lines  from  the  East,  will  furnish  the 
very  best  service  to  Colorado  that  can  be  obtained. 

East-bound  this  train  will  leave  Denver  at  1:15 
p.  M.  and  Colorado  Springs  at  1 130,  arriving  at  Omaha 
at  6:00  the  following  morning,  Des  Moines  10:06  a.  m., 
and  Chicago  at  7  :oo  that  evening. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Limited,  with  Big  Five 
from  Chicago  and  Colorado  Flyer  from  Omaha  and 
Kansas  City,  offers  a  variety  of  Colorado  service  that 
cannot  be  surpassed. 


46 


Dining  Car.  "Big  Five"  and  Colorado  Flyer. 


47 


^^. 


